September 2, 2007

I just returned to Ouaga after a lovely 3 night/4 day trip to Bobo-Dioulasso and Banfora in the Western part of Burkina Faso.  It really gave me a new perspective on this country, and I loved every minute of the discovery.  However, the trip proved once again that it is the journey that counts and not the destination, as the following story clearly shows…

I am getting good now with the green taxi and had no problem hailing one from home and making it to the bus station.  There I got my ticket for 6 000 CFA (13,20$) for the 4 hour ½ journey on a very comfortable and modern bus.  Once in Bobo, I made it to my hotel where I had reserved a room, the Coconut Hotel (Le Cocotier) right downtown near the market and sightseeing places.  It was clean and had a TV and bathroom for 7 500 CFA (16,50$).  After setting my bags down, I made it first to have a look at the odd grand mosque which has funny wood pieces sticking out for easy painting.  Then I was off to the central market which is large and dynamic.  I walked around a bit but got hassled so much by shop keeper that soon I learned to walk briskly without looking and returned to the hotel. 

The next day, I worked a bit for one of my partner organization, the association of rice producers.  I went around the various food shops and checked out the availability of Burkina rice, the size of bags and packaging.  Once my “obligation” was done, I went to the old part of Bobo and walked around.  The entrance fee was 1000 CFA (2,20$) plus one guide at 2000 CFA to show me around and explain the various communities that live in that area.  Most houses are still made of earth mixed with straw, and when I commented that this must not be so water proof especially with the hard rain we get here, the guide agreed that this was a problem.  We went to a beer making house and they showed me how they take the mill grain, have it soak and germ, then dry it, grind it into flour, boil it for 3 days then add yeast and let in ferment for another few days.  I expected a truly disgusting drink but I was pleasantly surprised.  Tho there is no alcohol content due to short brewing time, it was quite tasty. During the evening, I went to the Bamboo Club and found it to be very nicely decorated.  They have a different band play every night and try to support local talents but they only play after 9:30 pm, by which time I was ready to go to bed!

The following day, I got up early to catch the bus to Banfora, and again boarded a very comfortable and modern bus.  It took only a little over one hour for the journey and once I got there, I checked into the Peace Hotel (Hotel de la Paix).  The room was only 6 000 CFA (13,20$) but the room was not so clean and the shared bathroom was even worse.  The bed sagged way down in the middle and felt like I was falling through.  I figured it was fine for one night, but I definitely would not stay there again.  I really wanted to make it to the hippo lake and decided to rent a bicycle since it is only 7 km away from the town. I managed to find one for rent for 2000 CFA (4,40$) and set off on the bumpy road.  I crossed some lovely fields, a flooded road and a nice village before getting to the lake.  Once there, I paid yet again 2000 CFA to have a boat ride and hope to see the hippos but we had no luck.  They really are nocturnal animals and move around from 10pm to the morning.  So the best time to see them is between 6-8 am.  Also the fact that it is the raining season significantly increases the level of the lake and adds surrounding swamps where the hippos can hide easily.  I was disappointed but then again, every step along the way was beautiful and enjoyable. 

I decided to go on by bicycle another 7 km to get to a small fall.  By the time I got there, I was tired and my butt hurt real bad.  I did make it to the fall, but was greatly disappointed by it.  I was more impressed by the gigantic mango trees that line the small road to get there and the scenery in general, including some lovely birds. So I managed to cycle back to the hotel, but in great pain.  I had pushed myself too far and 30 km of bicycle on bumpy roads was too much for Uncle Ben.  But hein, what the heck!  At least when I took a shower back at my hotel it felt like heaven falling from the sky!  I then just walked around Banfora a bit and loved it for its trees and relaxed atmosphere, much like Bobo.  For dinner, I went to the restaurant next door called McDonald (no association with the fast food chain of course) and had a nice steak with sautayed potatoes.  In bed early and up at the crack of dawn the next day for the long journey back to Ouaga. 

Again we had a nice modern bus, but when it started to rain the ceiling leaked in many places, including right over my seat.  So I placed a plastic bag on my lap and watched it fall then roll to the floor. I found the journey long but I guess it was much like when I was in Vietnam and took a 4-5 h long bus ride to Hanoi, and the same between Chitwan and Kathmandu. I just know tho that I won't feel like making this trip too often! I had left Rémi with one of his daycare teacher who was on holiday and agreed to look after him.  I had left him 5 pages of instructions, emergency phone numbers and called every day while I was away to make sure everything was ok.  And it was.  This was my first break away from Rémi since March when I went to Tibet while in Nepal. I was happy to be back home and this trip did me lots of good.  I will return to Banfora to see the hippos in the dry season and at the crack of dawn…