Everest area trek - October 4-14^th 2008

I just returned from a 10 day trek to the foot of Mount Everest and enjoyed every moment of this challenging adventure! Most of us know little of great Giant, except that it is the highest mountain on earth. So here are a few tid-bits of information:

• Its height is 8 850 meters and it lies on the border between Tibet (China) and Nepal;
• Nepal has 8 of the world's 10 highest mountains;
• Everest can be climbed either from the base camp in Tibet or from the Nepali side but only during short periods in the year - fall and spring. The rest of the year, the weather is too harsh;
• It cost 60 000$ to get a climbing permit and the waiting list is very long;
• The most difficult thing in climbing other then the cold weather and high winds is the altitude - the higher you go, the less oxygen there is in the air and the more tired you get;
• Altitude sickness can strike anyone above 3000 m - it can be mild with headaches and nausea or very serious with water building up in the brain and the lungs which is fatal if the patient is not brought down to lower altitude immediately;
• You can get close to Everest base camp on the Tibet side by road and only have to do a short trek (2-3 days) - plus you get an un-obstructed view of Everest all the time;
• There were many attempts to reach the summit in the 20-30s but the first successful attempt was in 1953 by a British Edmund Hilary;
• On the Nepali side, the closer you can get is by plane to Lukla, then you must trek on trails for about 8 days - during that time, Everest cannot be seen because 2 of the highest peaks obstruct it from view until day 8;
• The trek on the Nepali side is very demanding with high altitude and mountains to climb.

Now that I have put all this into perspective, it has been a dream of mine to go trekking in the Everest area since my last stay in Nepal. So I set out to take this once-in-a-lifetime chance and left on October 4th and returned 2 days earlier then planned on the 14th. I was supposed to go alone but at the last minute, another volunteer - Craig - decided to come along. The hard part for me was for sure leaving Rémi for so long...

For those of you who want to know the details about the trek, here is the itinerary:

Day 1: October 4 - Flight KTM to Lukla 2860 m
5 hour trek Lukla - Mondzo - 2835 m, 10 km
Craig and I arrived at KTM domestic airport at 5 am, a little more than one hour before our flight departure time, but they don't open the doors until 5:30. By then there were many disgruntled passengers waiting to get in - flights to Lukla with all airlines had been cancelled for the past few days due to bad weather. So then it was a circus trying to get to Yeti Airline reps to find out if we would be able to fly out that day or not. Finally, we were put on a 9 am flight instead of the first 6 am one. The short flight in the small propeller airplane was a bit scary, especially the landing in Lukla with a runway that starts at the end of a cliff and is very short. We got off the plane a little shaken to find a wall of locals, either curious bystanders or offering their services as porters or guides. I insisted on going to the lodge that a friend had recommended to get them to vouch for 2 porters for us. In a frenzy, we were proposed 2 men and said yes a little too quickly. The criteria should be that they speak English, have good cold weather gear like shoes and a jacket, and are strong enough to carry our bags. One of our porters didn't fit these criterias, and I worried that we might live to regret taking him. Still, we set out early on the trail, eager to begin this trek. It was cool and nice, and we passed 2 superb waterfalls along the way, lots of pine trees and a beautiful river. As planned, we stopped in Mondzo at Summit Lodge (100 Rs per night - 1,25$)

Day 2: October 5- Mondzo - Namche Bazaar - 3446 m, 8 km
Left Mondzo at 8 am and crossed a few suspension bridges, including one that was very high over a deep gorge. We also had a very tough climb for over 2 hours, going up a very steep mountain, non-stop. I was huffing and puffing, sweating and trying to go one step at a time, steady. We actually arrived in Namche very early at 10:30, after only a 2 hour 1/2 trek. The weather was cloudy and it even rained a little from time to time. Purba, our English-speaking porter, recommended the Everest Hotel but it was full, so we checked out another one called the "Holiday Inn" (not an affiliate of the famous chain) and it was also full. But next to it stands the all-new Yak Hotel, and they had 2 rooms for us, impeccably clean with a nice restaurant (200 Rs per night - 3$). We settled in, washed up then walked around Namche. It is a nice little village which pretty much caters to the tourist and trekking clients with all kinds of gear for sale. Now that the weather was getting cooler, it made sense to buy a few more things for the road - warm slacks and a thermal sleeveless top, a tuque, mitts, etc. We ate a nice pizza for lunch at the hotel, and a tough yak steak for dinner from a beast that sure had done the run Lukla-Namche a zillion times. The menu was a source of entertainment with its funny English:"Paper steak with paper sauce", "Come as a geast, go as a friend", "Apple Pia", "Apple Fitter", "Peaus or toast", "sand witch", "Buan Barked", ... can you guess what they meant ?

Day 3: October 6- Namche Bazaar - Losasa - 3380 m
We were supposed to stay another day + one night in Namche to adjust to high altitude but I felt like moving on. Still, following advice from other trekkers, we agreed to first climb higher than Namche to the Everest View Hotel, 400 m straight up the mountain. That was a tough climb, and once there it was cloudy so we could not really see the mountains well. There were many people doing the same climb as us and often, we were in a slow line-up inching our way along and it took about 1 hour 1/2 to reach the hotel. We had an overpriced tea and water, then climbed down back to Namche in one hour. Packed our bags, some last minute shopping and then we hit the road. I had planned to stop in Sanasa which is the same altitude as Namche, and we should have since it has a few nice lodges and great views of the Himalayas. But I wanted to continue, so we headed on until Losasa where we stopped after 2 hours 1/2 at the Pokhara Lodge - very shabby rooms for only 100 Rs per night, smelly hole-in-the-plank toilet and a smoky restaurant, obviously more of a stop for Nepali porters then for tourists. Washed up, then had Dhal Bhat and French Fries for dinner.

Day 4: October 7 - Losasa - Pangboche - 3930 m
We left Losasa at around 8 am on a nice trail, downhill for a while until we reached Phunki Tenga, then it was steady uphill for over one hour, until we reached the monastery in Tengboche at 10 am. The grounds are superb and the view of the snow-capped mountains stunning. The weather was clear, so we even got our first view of Everest in the distance. We chatted with some monks and rested for 30 minutes. I was surprised to find out that the Mero Mobile Tower of Namche still covered up to here, so I called Rémi to wish him a Happy Birthday. Then we left at around 10:30 on pretty easy and even trails and got to Pangboche at 11:30. I hesitated between staying or continuing but they Everest View Lodge was so nice, and I didn't want to push us too much, so we decided to stay. Had my first Sherpa Stew for lunch which was delicious. The lodge was pretty busy, so we quickly made conversation with other trekkers, including 6 housewives from Southern India who were all so cheerful, returning from Kala Patar where they got a great view of Everest up close.

Day 5: October 8 - Pangpoche - Dingboche-4350 m
It was a cold night and early morning. Had a coffee and ate a bit but the high altitude is giving me little appetite. Hit the road at 7:30, in great shape and walking fast. Mostly even terrain at first, then uphill with surroundings slowly changing - no more trees but mostly colorful shrubs and rocks. It was cloudy and cold on the trail, and my porter had fallen behind so I couldn't get my warm clothes. If I stopped too long, I would get cold so I continued. We arrived in Dingboche early at 9:30, in just 2 hours instead of 3 as indicated in our trekking guide. There were many lodges but we finally chose Island Peak Lodge with single rooms at 100 Rs and a nice sunny restaurant area. We put away our stuff in our rooms then headed to Chunk Hung, up 380 m to acclimatize again. Even tho the slope was not steep, I had a real hard time and had to go very slowly. It took us 1 hour 1/2 to reach 4740 m but even tho we were supposed to have a great view of the Himal from there, the clouds decided otherwise. We had lunch at a lodge there, chow-mein and Sherpa Stew. Then we returned to Dingboche in one hour. Washed up, and read in the dining room. Had pizza but it was so tiny (5" diameter) and very expensive so we were disappointed. Met yet again some amazing British housewives who were taking the same route as us, but they were camping in tents! By now it is pretty cold, so they were happy to come in the heated dining room of our lodge to chit-chat with us.

Day 6: October 9 - Dingboche - Lobuche, 4930 m, 8 km
Again we were supposed to stay one day one night more to adjust to the high altitude but I decided that we hit the road nice and slow. Now that we go to bed so early, we also get up with the sunrise at around 6 am. So, we hit the road early at 7:15. We first had to climb a mountain out of the Dingboche Valley and when we reached the top, beautiful plains stretched before us with superb snow-capped mountains all around. The trek was easy for the first hour and more, until we reached Dukla. Then it was uphill from there up a very steep climb. At the top of this pass, we again had a stunning view all around. There are many stone memorials of people who have perished in the region, mostly on Mt. Everest. Then the trail went downhill and along a river until we reached Lobuche. I had heard and read horrors about this place, but we found it to be lovely and the Alpine Inn had great room and a very sunny dining restaurant (300 Rs per night). Will looking at my pictures on my camera, I accidentally erased them all. I was so sad and shocked about this. I decided to head up a mountain behind Lobuche, about 400 m up, to again acclimatize. I had a superb view from up there, then came back down for lunch with fried potatoes (8$). Prices on the menu are now going up steady, even the small hot water thermos which goes for 3$, fried rice for 4$.

Day 7: October 10 - Lobuche - Kala Pattar - 5550 m
This is the big day ! As always, we got up early and left at 7 am up a rocky trail which got us to Gorek Shep at 8:30. I could not help but continue up the trail to summit Kala Patar, which gives the best view of Mt. Everest from the Nepal side. It was very slow going on the sandy and rocky trail because of the high altitude. From 1/3 of the way up, we started to see Everest come up behind Nuptse and as we climbed high, the view just got better. I was a clear day with blue skies, and finally after 1 hour 1/2, we reached the top. It was windy and chilly, but the view made it all worth it. We stayed for over one hour, taking countless photos, sitting on the ledge and just taking in this incredible moment. Then we came down and decided to stay in Gorek Shep at Snowlands Lodge, with shabby rooms for 300 Rs per night. Took a nap, played cards, had Sherpa Stew for lunch with boiled potatoes. Met 2 Québéquers, had dinner then went to bed fully dressed in a sleeping bag plus a comforter !

Day 8: October 11 - Gorek Shep - Pangboche
Now that we had done what we came here to do, we are eager to return to Lukla and then to KTM. Again we set out early at 7 am and went down to Lobuche, then into the valley until Pheriche. We arrived there at around 11 am and had lunch, then continued on until Pangboche for another hour 1/2. When we got there at 1 pm, most lodges were full but we found 2 rooms at the Om Kailash Hotel for 200 Rs per night. Washed up, rested a bit and had an omelet and boiled veggies for lunch. I managed to climb a mountain to get service signal on my mobile and called Rémi. I miss him and want to return home quickly.

Day 9: October 12 - Pangboche - Namche
A very cold morning. Had coffee then hit the road. The trail went down quite a bit until Tengboche and Phunki Tenga, then up sharply until Sanasa with beautiful blue skies and great views of Everest. It took 5 hours to reach Namche and we stopped again at the Yak Hotel. Washed up then had a great pizza at "Pizza Hut" (again not an affiliate of the famous chain). Then bumped into the Indian housewives, chatted and tried to find a way to confirm our return flight for an earlier date, October 14th.

Day 10: October 13 - Namche - Lukla
I went ahead of Craig wanting to get to the Yeti Airline office in Lukla in time to change our return flight. It was mostly downhill so we had to be careful not to slip or go too hard on the knees. Crossed a lot of tourist groups and yak herds along the way. A bit cloudy and cool, and the way back to Lukla seemed very long. It took me 5 hours 1/2 to reach it, and the Yeti office was closed for lunch. I checked into Nurmur Hotel near the airport since we were told that they could take care of our plane confirmation. We got a nice room with attached bathroom for only 300 Rs (negotiated down from 500), then rested a bit. I went out trying to find coverage for my mobile, but there is no tower in Lukla so it did not work. I eventually called from a shop and spoke to Rémi and his caretakers.

Day 11: October 14 - Lukla - KTM
In the morning, we saw all hotel guests leave one after the other to go catch there plane, and still we could not get a straight answer as to when our turn would come. I lost patience and finally decided to head to the airport next door. Eventually we were given a boarding pass and waited as planes came and left for over 2 hours. Then our turn came, and we boarded Yeti Airlines. As the plane went down the runway toward the cliff edge, it took off much to my relief. We got to KTM 30 minutes later to much warmer climate.

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